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Purity  and  Adulteration 


IN 


» 

Native  Wines 


Address 


BY 


PERCY  T.  MORGAN 


PRESIDENT  OF  THE  CALIFORNIA  WINE  ASSOCIATION 


AT  THE 


International  Pure  Food  Congress 
St.  Louis 


SEPTEMBER 


1904 


LIBRARY 

L&3ITY  CF  CiLI7 
D  VV'iS 


Purity  and  Adulteration  in 
Native  Wines. 

Address  by  PERCY  T.  MORGAN, 
President  of  the  California  Wine  Association, 
at  the  International  Pure  Food  Congress, 
St.  Louis,  September,  1904. 


In  speaking  to  the  subject  assigned  to  me  by  the  Committee  it  may 
not  be  amiss  to  give  a  short  historical  sketch  of  Grape  Culture  and  Wine 
Making  in  the  United  States,  in  order  to  demonstrate  the  importance  of 
the  Native  Wine  Industry  and  the  necessity  for  its  protection  from 
spurious  or  adulterated  products. 

Almost  five  centuries  before  the  discovery  by  Columbus  of  the 
American  continent  early  Scandinavian  navigators  visited  the  eastern 
shores  of  what  are  now  the  United  States,  and  finding  grapes  growing 
in  great  abundance  named  the  country  "Vinland." 

Wines  were  produced  in  considerable  quantities  from  native  grapes 
in  Florida  as  far  back  as  1564,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Sir  John 
Hawkins.  Amadas  and  Barlowe,  who  visited  North  Carolina  in  1584, 
were  so  impressed  with  the  luxuriance  of  the  growth  of  vines  that  one  of 
them  wrote  that  he  found  the  land  "so  full  of  grapes "  that  "I  think  in 
all  the  world  the  like  abundance  is  not  to  be  found." 

2 


During  the  French  occupation  of  Louisiana,  history  records  that 
the  wine  production  reached  such  proportions  that  the  government 
becoming  alarmed  for  its  domestic  trade  forbade  its  manufacture  in  the 
colony. 

About  1630  the  "London  Company "  sent  French  vignerons  to 
Virginia  to  cultivate  imported  vines,  Lord  Delaware  having  enthusi- 
astically recommended  the  experiment. 

Almost  all  the  early  attempts  at  viticulture  were  directed  to  the 
introduction  of  vines  from  Europe,  until  Nicholas  Longworth,  who 
might  be  called  the  "father  of  the  Native  Wine  Industry, "  in  1850,  after 
experimenting  with  foreign  varieties  along  the  Ohio  Eiver  for  thirty 
years,  gave  up  the  attempt  to  grow  them,  and  remarked : 

"If  we  intend  cultivating  the  grape  for  wine  we  must  rely 

only  on  our  native  grapes  and  new  varieties  arising  from  their 

seed." 

Mr.  Downey  in  1851  also  stated  in  the  Horticulturist  that, 

"The  introduction  of  European  vines  into   America   for 

cultivation  on  a  large  scale  is  impossible.      There  is  first  a 

season  or  two  of  promise  and  then  a  complete  failure." 

When  the  above  testimony  was  given,  the  Pacific  Slope  was  prac- 
tically an  unknown  country,  having  only  recently  become  part  of  the 
United  States.  The  gentlemen  above  quoted  were,  therefore,  unaware 

3 


that  vines  from  Spain  were  successfully  introduced  into  Mexico  in  the 
sixteenth  century,  and  that  when  Franciscan  monks,  under  Father  Juni- 
pero  Serra,  established  in  1769  the  first  California  mission  at  San  Diego, 
they  brought  with  them  cuttings  of  the  Vitis  Vinifera  from  which  they 
propagated  the  Mission  Grape,  pioneer  of  the  California  Wine 
Industry. 

It  was  not  until  the  early  '40 's  that  the  Wine  Industry  in  the  East- 
ern and  Southern  States  commenced  to  assume  commercial  proportions, 
though  Volney  testifies  to  having  tasted,  in  1796,  wine  made  at  Galli- 
polis,  Ohio,  and  there  are  records  to  show  that  grape  growing  was 
carried  on  about  this  time  in  Pennsylvania,  Kentucky,  Virginia,  Mary- 
land, Illinois,  North  and  South  Carolina,  and  a  little  later  in  New  York 
and  the  District  of  Columbia. 

The  early  efforts  having  resulted  in  comparative  failure,  through 
the  attempt  to  propagate  imported  vines,  earnest  attention  was  turned 
to  the  improvement  of  the  native  varieties.  When  Major  Adlum  first 
brought  the  Catawba  grape  prominently  to  notice  in  1824  he  sounded 
the  tocsin  of  the  Native  American  Wine  Industry. 

The  transactions  of  the  "Cincinnati  Horticultural  Society "  show 
that  great  interest  was  taken  in  viniculture  even  in  the  '30  's,  when 
annual  wine  exhibitions  were  held  and  premiums  awarded,  and  so  much 


was  thought  of  the  region  as  a  wine  growing  section  that  the  Ohio 
Elver  was  designated  the  *  *  Rhine  of  America. ' ' 

From  the  Fox,  the  Cape,  the  Catawha,  Ives  Seedling  and  Norton 
Seedling  have  sprung  nearly  all  the  Eastern  wine  bearing  varieties,  of 
which  more  than  fifty  are  now  in  general  use. 

In  the  South,  among  many  other  varieties,  the  Scuppernong  grape 
is  largely  cultivated,  and  a  "Mother  Vine"  still  exists  which  was 
planted  on  Roanoke  Island,  North  Carolina,  in  the  days  of  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh. 

Around  the  Scuppernong  vine  is  entwined  a  romance  of  early  times 
in  America,  which  has  been  immortalized  by  Sallie  Southall  Gotten  in 
the  "Legend  of  the  White  Doe,"  which  purports  to  relate  the  fate  of 
Virginia  Dare,  the  first  white  child  born  of  English  parents  on  the  soil 
of  North  America,  whose  disappearance,  together  with  that  of  an  entire 
party  of  colonists,  is  a  mystery  which  history  has  not  solved.  The 
legend  runs  that  this  beautiful  young  girl  was  turned  by  Indian 
sorcery  into  a  white  doe,  which,  being  shot  by  a  silver  arrow,  returned 
to  human  form,  and  dying,  her  heart's  blood  fertilized  a  seedling  vine, 
the  fruit  from  which  yielded  a  deep  red  wine  instead  of  the  white  juice 
usual  to  this  grape. 

"And  the  tiny  shoot  with  leaflets,  by  the  sunlight  ivarmed  to  life, 
"Was  the  Vine  of  Civilization  in  the  wilderness  of  strife." 

5 


The  production  of  still  wines  of  distinctive  types  has  reached  very 
considerable  proportions  in  the  Eastern  and  Southern  States.  A  trade 
of  many  million  gallons  per  annum  has  been  created  in  wines,  prin- 
cipally under  individual  labels,  named  after  the  grapes  from  which 
they  are  derived.  Many  of  these  wines  are  of  excellent  quality  .and 
have  received  substantial  recognition  at  domestic  and  foreign  Exposi- 
tions, including  Paris,  1900. 

Few  realize  the  enormous  growth  of  the  American  Sparkling  Wine 
Industry.  Since  Nicholas  Longworth  in  1842  announced  that  he  had 
"by  chance "  produced  a  wine  naturally  fermented  in  the  bottle,  the 
output  has  increased  from  year  to  year,  but  more  rapidly  in  the  last 
decade,  until  at  the  present  day  the  consumption  of  wine  made  after 
the  champagne  process  from  native  American  grapes  equals  approx- 
imately one-half  of  the  quantity  imported  from  abroad ;  in  other  words, 
almost  one-third  of  all  the  Sparkling  Wine  drunk  in  the  United  States 
to-day  is  produced  from  American  grapes,  and  this  ratio  is  constantly 
increasing.  How  much  enterprise  and  energy,  coupled  with  extensive 
advertising,  has  brought  about  this  splendid  result,  only  those  can  tell 
who  have  fought  the  battle  against  the  natural  predilection  in  favor  of 
imported  champagnes. 

The  American  product    has    a    characteristic    flavor    extremely 
pleasant  to  those  who  are  accustomed  to  drinking  it.      In  point  of 

6 


sparkle,  finish,  bouquet  and  general  excellence  the  native  wine  can 
to-day  bear  very  favorable  comparison  with  the  imported  article,  as  an 
evidence  of  which  may  be  cited  that  American  Sparkling  Wines  were 
awarded  both  gold  and  silver  medals  at  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900. 

In  California  the  Vitis  Vinifera  immediately  found  congenial  sur- 
roundings, and  for  the  last  fifty  years  viniculture  has  been  a  leading 
industry  of  the  State.  Numerous  varieties  of  foreign  grapes  are  cul- 
tivated. In  one  vineyard  cuttings  from  the  celebrated  Lafite  Vineyard 
are  growing,  the  grapes  from  which  produce  a  very  high  class  wine. 
Wild  grape  vines  are  also  found  indigenous  to  the  soil  of  California, 
and  grow  luxuriantly  along  the  streams  of  almost  every  county,  but  so 
far  native  stocks  have  not  been  employed  for  wine  grape  culture. 

Upwards  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  acres  are  devoted  to 
grape  culture  for  wine  and  raisins,  and  the  investment  in  these  indus- 
tries in  California  aggregates  over  eighty  million  dollars. 

The  vintage  of  1902  yielded  about  forty-five  million  gallons  of 
wine,  and  the  average  annual  production  is  not  far  short  of  thirty-five 
million  gallons,  of  which  about  two-thirds  are  dry  white  and  red  wines, 
and  one-third  sweet  wines. 

The  climate  of  California  permits  of  the  production  of  wines,  bear- 
ing a  close  resemblance  to  European  types,  which  are  largely  consumed 

7 


with  ever  increasing  favor  all  over  the  United  States,  in  Mexico,  Central 
and  South  America,  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  China,  Japan  and  other 
Oriental  countries,  as  well  as  Great  Britain  and  even  on  the  continent 
of  Europe. 

California  Wines  have  taken  gold  medals  at  many  International 
Expositions,  the  most  recent  foreign  recognition  being  that  accorded  in 
Paris  in  1900,  when  four  gold,  nine  silver,  and  nine  bronze  medals  were 
awarded  by  the  jury. 

Grape  culture  is  carried  on  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  in  more  than 
two-thirds  of  all  the  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union.  Measures 
which  tend  to  the  uplifting  of  the  Wine  Industry  should,  therefore,  in 
the  interest  of  their  constituents,  be  a  subject  for  the  solicitude  of  a 
great  majority  of  the  members  of  both  Houses  of  Congress. 

It  is  in  domestic  consumption  that  an  industry  must  find  its  great 
prosperity.  France,  typical  as  a  wine  producing  country,  despite  her 
great  home  production,  imports  on  the  average  almost  four  times  as 
much  wine  as  is  exported. 

Americans  are  not  wine  drinkers  in  the  same  sense  as  the  French, 
the  Italians  and  the  Spanish,  who  consume  annually  almost  fifty  times 
as  much  wine  per  capita  as  the  people  of  the  United  States.  While  it 
is  gratifying  to  note  that  over  ninety  per  cent  of  the  wine  consumed  in 

8 


lishment  of  happy  and  prosperous  homes  thereon;  and  also  to  the 
greater  prosperity  of  transportation  companies  in  freight  on  many 
carloads  of  wine,  where  they  now  carry  only  pounds  of  tea  and  coffee. 

A  dissertation  on  the  Native  Wine  Industry,  detailing  conditions  of 
production  in  the  various  localities  and  the  variety  of  wines  in  each 
district,  would  consume  many  hours.  Eealizing,  therefore,  that  the  time 
allowed  to  each  speaker  at  this  Convention  must  necessarily  be  short  in 
order  to  give  opportunity  for  discussion  of  the  many  important  topics 
before  it,  I  will  turn  to  subject  matter  which  is  perhaps  of  most  interest 
to  those  here  assembled. 

Taken  as  a  general  proposition,  the  wines  of  native  production 
offered  to  the  consumer  in  the  United  States  compare  very  favorably 
in  purity  with  those  of  any  country  in  the  world,  and  the  great  per- 
centage are  absolutely  pure. 

Grapes  in  the  wine  producing  sections  can,  as  a  rule,  be  grown  in 
sufficient  quantities  and  at  a  cost  which  offers  little  inducement  for  the 
use  of  adulterants  to  increase  the  volume.  In  fact,  in  the  largest  native 
wine  producing  center  it  is  frequently  a  question  of  how  profitably  to 
distribute  the  generous  yield  of  certain  seasons.  This,  it  is  true,  would 
be  easily  solved  if  laws  could  be  passed  limiting  or  prohibiting  the  mar- 
keting of  wine  until  it  has  reached  a  certain  period  of  maturity.  It  is 
the  competition  of  immature  wines  of  a  succeeding  generous  crop  that 


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the  United  States  is  domestically  produced,  the  fact  is  rather  discourag- 
ing that  only  about  one-half  gallon  of  wine  per  annum  is  drunk  per 
capita  as  against  one  and  one-half  gallons  of  distilled  liquors. 

That  the  habitual  drinking  of  pure  wine,  as  practiced  in  European 
countries,  is  conducive  to  temperance,  and  not,  therefore,  to  be  classed 
with  intoxicating  liquors  in  general,  is  a  generally  acknowledged  fact, 
which,  in  early  days,  was  testified  to  by  no  less  a  personage  than  a 
President  of  the  United  States,  the  great  Thomas  Jefferson,  who 
remarked : 

"I  rejoice,  as  a  moralist,  at  a  prospect  of  a  reduction  of 
the  duties  on  wine  by  our  National  Legislature.  It  is  an  error 
to  view  a  tax  on  that  liquor  as  merely  a  tax  on  the  rich.  It  is 
prohibition  of  its  use  to  the  middling  classes  of  our  citizens, 
and  a  condemnation  of  them  to  the  poisons  of  spirits,  which  is 
desolating  their  homes.  NO  NATION  IS  DEUNKEN 
WHERE  WINE  IS  CHEAP;  AND  NONE  SOBER  WHERE 
THE  DEARNESS  OF  WINE  SUBSTITUTES  ARDENT 
SPIRITS  AS  ITS  COMMON  BEVERAGE. " 

The  evils  following  an  unstinted  and  excessive  use  of  coffee  and 
tea  are  little  realized,  and  if  this  could  be  partly  or  largely  replaced  by 
a  consumption  of  pure,  light  native  wines  it  would  redound  to  the 
benefit  not  only  of  the  people  at  large  in  healthfulness,  but  to  the 
increased  profitable  occupation  of  large  acreage  of  land,  and  the  estab- 

9 


often  destroys  or  injures  the  value  of  previous  maturing  vintages. 
Holders  become  nervous  for  their  market,  and  a  panicky  feeling  some- 
times ensues,  which  impels  them  to  attempt  to  force  their  product  on  the 
market  at  a  greater  rate  than  consumption  will  warrant. 

The  Native  Wine  Industry  will  never  attain  its  proper  prominence 
until  the  public  has  the  opportunity  of  judging  the  true  merits  of  the 
best  wines  through  selected  vintages  carefully  matured  and  bottled  at 
originating  cellars,  whether  these  be  cellars  of  individual  vintners  or  of 
large  central  handlers,  like  those  of  Bordeaux,  having  the  opportunity 
of  picking  out  suitable  wines  throughout  a  region  for  properly  aging, 
and  able,  like  the  great  French  houses,  to  guarantee  under  standard 
labels  the  quality  and  maturity  of  the  wine  and  to  stand  or  fall  by  the 
public  approbation  or  disapproval  of  any  deviation  from  a  given 
standard. 

Such  wines,  of  course,  will  have  to  command  an  adequate  price  to 
compensate  for  all  the  care  and  attention  necessary,  and  will  not,  there- 
fore, in  any  way  come  in  competition  with  the  cheaper  wines. 

The  use  of  sugar  to  strengthen  musts,  which  from  climatic  or 
weather  conditions  have  not  attained  the  necessary  degree  of  sweetness 
to  produce  by  fermentation  an  adequate  alcoholic  strength  for  the 
proper  preservation  of  the  wine,  is  practiced  pretty  generally  all  over 

n 


the  world.  In  some  countries  it  is,  under  proper  restrictions,  per- 
mitted by  legislative  enactment.  It  would  perhaps,  therefore,  be  unjust 
for  one  section,  blessed  by  Nature  with  a  benign  climate  which  seldom 
fails  to  properly  mature  its  crops,  to  endeavor  to  force  upon  another 
less  favored  section  any  unfair  legislation;  but  great  care  must  be 
exercised  that  privilege  shall  not  degenerate  into  license,  and  while 
restrictive  measures  should  not  be  carried  to  the  extent  of  preventing 
the  artificial  strengthening  of  grapes  which  are  too  low  in  natural  sweet- 
ness to  admit  of  their  being  made  into  wine,  it  is  nevertheless  not  only 
necessary  that  the  law  should  designate  what  kind  of  sugar  shall  be 
used,  and  to  what  extent,  but  that  wines  which  are  wholly  or  in  part 
derived  from  glucose  and  contain  antiseptics  and  artificial  coloring 
should  be  plainly  so  designated  upon  the  casks  and  bottles. 

It  is  not  claimed  that  glucose  is  unhealthful,  for  being  a  vegetable 
product,  carefully  extracted  by  the  most  modern  and  approved  methods, 
it  will  probably  bear  favorable  comparison  with  sugar  produced  from 
any  other  source;  but  its  use  under  the  general  designation  of  WINE 
—of  which  the  meaning,  according  to  Webster,  is 

"The  fermented  juice  of  the  grape/' 

would  soon  render  unprofitable  the  great  vineyard  investments  of  this 
country,  from  the  fact  that  alcohol  can  be  produced  from  the  fer- 

12 


mentation  of  glucose  at  probably  one-fifth  of  its  cost  when  produced 
from  grapes. 

Let  each  stand  on  its  own  merits.  Let  grape  wine  be  marked  and 
sold  as  WINE,  and  glucose  be  marked  and  sold  as  a  corn  product ;  or, 
if  mixed,  let  this  fact  be  plainly  apparent  to  the  consumer,  and  then  if 
he  prefer  the  corn  or  the  mixed  product  to  the  pure  wine  the  law  will 
have  done  all  that  can  reasonably  be  asked  by  the  producer  of  grapes. 

It  is  possible,  as  has  been  suggested  by  the  eminent  advocate  of 
pure  food  legislation,  who  is  now  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Chemistry  of 
the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  that  deficiencies  in  Grape 
Must  in  one  section  of  the  country  might  be  supplemented  by  the  use  of 
concentrated  sugar  produced  from  the  grapes  of  a  more  favored  section, 
so  that  the  use  of  either  cane  or  glucose  sugars  in  pure  wine  in  this 
country  might  be  entirely  dispensed  with,  and  that  pure  wines  so  desig- 
nated shall  cover  only  the  pure  product  of  grapes,  unadulterated  by  any 
foreign  substance. 

This  would  place  our  Native  Wines  on  a  high  plane,  and  we  could 
challenge  comparison  with  all  the  world,  for  if  wines  contained  no  added 
substance,  nothing  but  the  naturally  matured  article  could  be  marketed 
as  pure;  and  immature,  adulterated  or  sophisticated  wines  could  no 
longer  sail  under  false  colors. 

The  greatest  sufferer  from  spurious  or  adulterated  wines  must 

13 


necessarily  be  the  wine  producing  center  the  most  remote  from  the  great 
consuming  markets,  for  freight  on  the  wine  and  the  extra  cost  of  cooper- 
age may  almost  equal  the  cost  of  growing  the  grapes.  When  stretching 
or  adulteration  is  practiced  near  the  centers  of  consumption  such  so- 
called  wines  can  be,  and  often  are,  offered  at  prices  which  make  it  im- 
possible for  the  distant  grower  to  profitably  compete. 

The  curse  of  the  wine  business  to-day,  in  common  perhaps  with 
other  industries,  is  the  cry  for  cheapness.  The  trade  seldom  asks,  How 
good  is  your  article,  but  How  cheap  is  itf  The  cheapest  wine  cannot 
be  really  good,  for  the  costs  of  properly  maturing  and  handling  are 
great  and  inexorable.  Immature  wines,  and  so-called  wines  which  have 
only  a  sort  of  relationship  to  the  grape  product,  make  fierce  competition 
for  the  honestly  matured  and  wholesome  article. 

Handlers  who  wish  nothing  but  the  best— and  to  their  credit  be  it 
said  there  are  many  such— get  disheartened  when  they  see  their  neigh- 
bors taking  advantage  of  an  undiscriminating  and  trusting  public,  and 
waxing  rich  selling  wines  at  prices  which  spell  penury  for  the  more  con- 
scientious dealers. 

The  question  which  now  confronts  us,  therefore,  is,  shall  QUAL- 
ITY prevail  or  shall  cheapness  rule?  It  is  you,  Gentlemen  of  the 
National  Association  of  State  Dairy  and  Food  Departments,  who  can 
influence  the  answer  to  this  question. 


Shall  the  enactment  of  such  National  Legislation  be  encouraged,  as 
will  supplement  the  existing  very  generally  excellent  State  laws,  to 
enforce  the  labeling  of  an  article,  whether  it  be  in  barrels  or  in  bottles, 
for  what  it  actually  is,  and  not  for  what  the  distributor  chooses  to  say 
it  is  !  Shall  the  public  be  entitled  to  truthful  representation,  or  shall  the 
edict  of  Barnum  that  "The  public  loves  to  be  humbugged, "  be  the 
watchword? 

In  this  connection  it  is  well  to  mention  that  in  order  that  laws  be 
respected  the  responsibility  of  analysts  must  be  unquestioned.  In- 
stances have  occurred  where  an  absolutely  pure  article  has  been  branded 
as  impure  and  dealers  put  to  humiliation  and  expense  through  inex- 
perience in  wine  composition  and  analysis  on  the  part  of  chemists 
to  whom  samples  have  been  submitted.  Such  occurrences  tend  to  bring 
upon  Pure  Food  Laws  opposition  and  antagonistic  comment.  No 
article  should  be  publicly  condemned  without  previous  right  of  appeal 
to  a  disinterested  tribunal,  preferably  the  Bureau  of  Chemistry  of  the 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  which  should  be  made  the 
Supreme  Court  for  Pure  Food  Decisions. 

It  is  frequent  gatherings,  such  as  this  distinguished  company  here 
assembled,  which  are  needed  to  arouse  the  public  sentiment  of  cus- 
tomers to  demand  what  they  pay  for,  namely,  THE  BEST,  under  labels 
guaranteeing  purity  and  maturity.  If  the  consumer  really  desires  the 

15 


cheapest,  without  regard  to  quality,  the  fact  should  stare  him  in  the 
face  daily  in  the  label  on  his  bottle,  but  the  masquerading  of  immature 
or  fake  wines  under  the  guise  of  a  good,  honest  article  should  be  stopped 
by  the  strong  arm  of  law,  judiciously  and  equitably  executed. 

When  this  is  accomplished  a  discriminating  taste  will  be  rapidly 
awakened  among  consumers,  which  will  increase  ten-fold  the  present 
consumption  of  honest,  pure,  healthful  wines. 

The  security  of  investments  in  vineyard  property  will  then  be 
assured,  and  fluctuation  in  prices  which  now  cloud  the  enterprise  be 
avoided;  and,  relieved  of  the  incubus  of  cheap  goods  masquerading 
under  standard  quality  labels,  the  Native  Wine  Industry  will  go  for- 
ward by  leaps  and  bounds. 

I  wish,  in  conclusion,  to  acknowledge  the  courtesy  and  kindness  of 
Mr.  Paul  Garrett,  of  Norfolk,  Virginia,  in  furnishing  statistics  and 
valuable  old  records  for  my  use ;  and  also  of  many  other  Eastern  Wine 
Makers  who  have  courteously  answered  inquiries  on  matters  relating  to 
their  districts;  my  thanks  are  also  due  to  Mr.  E.  E.  Emerson,  who, 
sometime  ago,  kindly  sent  for  my  perusal  his  work,  "The  Story  of  the 
Vine,"  all  of  which  have  been  of  material  assistance  to  me  in  preparing 
this  paper. 


16 


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